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A manual wind watch is a great choice when you want the reliability and accuracy of a mechanical watch, but don’t want premium features like automatic movements or leather bands.
Hand winding is a time-honored method of maintaining mechanical timepieces. Although it’s not difficult, the process requires the proper tools and patience to get it right. Instead of relying on quartz or battery powered mechanisms, watchmakers have been hand winding since the 19th century.
Hand wind watches under $100
You’d be forgiven for thinking that winding your watch by hand was a thing of the past. But for watch fans, it can still be a daily ritual. In a hectic and high-tech world, it can be a moment of calm. A simple pleasure before the modern world kicks in for the day.
If you’re interested in the history of watches or are enthusiastic about vintage designs, there’s a world of interesting timepieces out there for you. Some of them will be battery-powered, some mechanical and self-winding, and a very small number will be hand-winding.
I’d like to very briefly look at the characteristics of the hand-wound models and then present you with a concise list of the best affordable examples – so that you can then make an informed choice when buying your own.
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What is a Hand-Wound or Manual Watch?
In simple terms, a mechanical watch keeps the time through its clockwork engine – what we call a movement. The whole mechanism works from the tension in its mainspring. You tighten the spring and as it slowly uncurls it drives the watches hands.
There are two ways to tighten that spring.
Either you allow gravity and motion to do it for you – that’s an automatic movement.
Or you physically wind it yourself – and that is a hand-wound movement.
You use the crown to fully wind the watch each morning and it runs for the rest of the day.https://www.youtube.com/embed/JAuRonHZiR8
Why Choose a Handwinding Watch?
Let’s be clear. You don’t need a wristwatch to tell the time. Your phone is capable of that and probably within arm’s length twenty-four hours a day.
If you do want a wristwatch for telling the time, a cheap plastic digital watch will do the job. It’ll even do the timekeeping better than a mechanical watch.
You’re here because you like the idea of wearing a charming piece of outdated technology on your arm. You like the design, the brand story and the history.
It’s why we’re all attracted to watches and why we end up with watch collections.
A hand-wound watch pushes that a step further. It requires you to manually wind it before use. There’s a ritual – a one I enjoy – of selecting that days watch, setting its time and then winding the mainspring.
It provides a moment of calm and a few minutes for contemplation. I even find myself more aware of the time and how I intend to use the rest of the day. You’ll do the same too.
I want to highlight some of my favourite hand-winding watches, particularly those that have a great story behind them. And I strongly believe that the story is important – when you’re winding a watch each morning you’re personally engaging with the timepiece – the more interesting it is the more interested you’ll be.
Some of the mains reasons that I enjoy mechanical watches are:
The brands producing them often have colourful backstories
Vintage-inspired designs are the norm
Hand-wound watches are usually small in diameter and relatively slim.
Many designs include an exhibition back so that you can see the movement running.
As you’ll see, on this small list I’ve included watches from Russia, China, Switzerland, Germany and the US. I’m confident that you’ll find at least one that is worth a closer look.
I’ll use any excuse to include Russian watches in my posts. They’re quirky, bullet-proof and often inexpensive. I’ve included more of the Vostok backstory elsewhere and I’d suggest that you have a look at some point.
The basics are that the company was created after one of Moscow’s watch factories was moved out of the city during WWII. The new plant produced watches for the military and it’s most successful watch was the Amphibia. A cheap, reliable dive watch that I always champion.
The Vostok Kommanderskie, or ‘Commander’ is the Chistopol based company’s other iconic watch.
Where the Amphibia is one of the worlds best value divers, the cheaper Kommanderskie is one of the best value mechanical watches full stop. If you want to try a hand-wound watch, this an ideal place to start.
Having been first introduced over fifty years ago, there’s been a considerable number of variations released, including both automatic and hand-wound models. The current range gives plenty of choice, but for many a Red Army issued used model will have greater appeal. It all depends on what you value – image and reliability or authenticity.
Like the Amphibia, the Kommanderskie is chunky and unsubtle with a slightly awkward looking chrome-coated brass case. It’s a mid-sized watch and once you replace the cheap strap looks like a lot of watch for the money.
Importantly, this was a watch that was issued to the military and civilian workers in Soviet-era Russia. In the West, you’re very unlikely to see one of these on someone else’s wrist.
Vostok Komandirskie 431171
39mm Diameter18mm Lug WidthChrome Plated BrassVostok 2414A movementAcrylic Crystal
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Perhaps unjustly, Chinese manufacturing hasn’t the best reputation. But that should very much depend on the product, and importantly, the budget. There’s no end of cheap Chinese mechanical watches offered for sale online and the quality can vary greatly. There’s also the reality that some of the great watches we love are made in Chinese factories, particularly the Microbrands.
How good are Chinese watch brands?
Let’s look at the history of Seagull, arguably China’s foremost watch brand.
Their factory has been producing watches since the 1950s, with the company focusing on mechanical only models since 1997. They’ve supplied the Chinese military with reliable watches for decades and their Tianjin factory is currently the largest watch manufacturer in China.
This brand has stood the test of time, producing watches to be used in tough environments. It has now successfully adapted to supplying the international consumer market.
My first Seagull watch was the M177S, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control homage. Now discontinued, it’s a great dress watch and my first experience of a piece from a Chinese manufacturer. Then I picked up this 1963 Chronograph, a watch that Seagull had reissued.
Like the Russian watches I’ve collected, this watch seems to shout out its heritage.It’s a remake of the watch that Seagull made for the People’s Liberation Army Air Force and it looks like I’d expect it to. It’s unashamedly Chinese, and like the Vostok, part of the appeal is the history.
It displays both the Red Star and the Made in China text on the dial. It comes in 42mm and 38mm versions, with the latter being the more authentic of the two. I bought mine from a friend so I have the 42mm, but if buying new I would have chosen the 38mm.
Of course, this is a mechanical watch with Seagull’s own ST19 Chronograph movement inside. It’s a complex and attractive movement that is visible through the exhibition back.
If you want a watch with an eye-catching movement – this would be my choice. The movement is stunning.
Sea-Gull 1963 Chronograph
42mm Diameter12.5mm ThickStainless SteelChinese Mechanical movementMineral Crystal50M Water Resistance
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Hamilton is a US brand with a fine history of producing watches for the railroads and the US army. Their marine chronometers were also used by both the US and Allied navies in WWII.
Having ceased manufacturing watches in America in 1969 the company is now Swiss-owned, and like Tissot and Certina, a part of the Swatch Group. This American heritage and Swiss ownership mean that Hamilton is a well respected and popular brand.
They are available on the high street which is always helpful.
I can’t stress enough the enjoyment that you get out of watches with a story. The Khaki has that. It was a soldier’s watch – tested in combat and now an iconic design.
This new release is a faithful recreation and like the Sea-gull, it has a 38mm case. By today’s standards that is small. But if we were shackled by today’s standards we’d be using our phone for telling the time – not a reissue of a 1960s military watch.
I value the authenticity.
The design is slightly spartan, with a black dial, canvas strap and a simple case. Above all, it is legible and functional. With the previous two watches were saw how the Russians and Chinese built their military watches.
This is how the American’s used to build military timepieces.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical H69439931
38mm Diameter9.5mm Thick20mm Lug WidthStainless SteelHamilton Calibre H-50 MovementSapphire Crystal50M Water Resistance
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A while back I asked the question, are Timex watches good value for money? I was pretty confident in answering yes. They are one of those brands that it’s easy to overlook – particularly as you disappear down the rabbit hole of watch collecting.
As you discover new brands you tend to forget about the bigger, more obvious names. As I’ve argued recently, using Rotary and Bulova as examples, these popular high street brands continue to release interesting watches.
I, along with many others, really took to Timex’s reissues, specifically the 1970s Q models. The Marlin collection is another line that has repeatedly drawn my interest. It’s a reworking of the 1960s watches that the brand describes as iconic.
Bear in mind that during the 1960s a third of all American watch sales were Timex. Not bad for a brand that can trace its roots back to the late Victorian period.
The current Marlin comes in a few versions. There’s a 40mm automatic watch. And this small, 34mm variation. That could be a dealbreaker. 34mm is very small – entirely representative of the era – but very small nonetheless.
Like all of the Marlin range, this is a classically styled and stylish watch. I prefer the California dial option, but this is still a great looking piece.
What the size really does well is capture that vintage ethos. It doesn’t just look vintage. It feels vintage. In addition, the crystal is acrylic and that further adds an element of authenticity.
If you can manage a modestly sized watch, this could be a great place to look to recreate a true vintage experience.
