A Mirrorless camera with image stabilization is becoming more and more popular every single year – my guess is that it’s going to be “the new thing” in years to come. If you’re an advanced photographer, or just getting started, this article may be of some help. It will let you know what to look for when purchasing a Mirroless camera with image stabilization and even give you a buying guide that’ll help direct you to the best ones out there on the market today!

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Best mirrorless camera

Camera with video stabilization – Let’s the videographer or filmmaker to shoot while on a shaky movement and produce videos that are smooth and sharp.

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The Sony A6300 is the best mirrorless camera on the market. What do you mean, the best mirrorless camera in a market full of hundreds of cameras? Well I’ll explain that, but just know that this camera is incredible.

There are thousands of models of cameras, but how to choose the best one and pick the most fitting? We’re here to help you finding an answer on your question. Our team has done a few months of research and testing in order to make a recommendation for our reader.

Best mirrorless camera with image stabilization

If you want to shoot clear and blur-free images and videos with a mirrorless camera, a camera with image stabilization is the ideal investment. Unlike films, image stabilization is no longer an expensive affair and is available in cameras across all price ranges.

Top 4 Mirrorless Cameras With Image Stabilization

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The best part of mirrorless cameras with image stabilization is that it doesn’t tie you down to a particular lens. Regardless of the lens, you can still get the benefit of image stabilization. Plus, you get clear and crisp images even when the ISO is on the lower end. And hey, they are robust and lightweight, which is a bonus.

As noted earlier, mirrorless cameras with image stabilization features are available across different price ranges and camera preferences. And in this post, we will compile a list of all the cameras with the said feature.

Let’s get started, shall we? But first,

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1. PANASONIC LUMIX GH5 II

  • Sensor size: 17.3 x 13 mm | Resolution: 5184 x 3888
  • Image stabilization: 5-axis stabilization
  • Sensor type: CMOS

Panasonic Lumix GH5 II

Buy

Panasonic Lumix GH5 II is the successor to the hugely popular Panasonic GH5 and has almost the same shape and dimensions. However, it is affordable and doesn’t burn a hole in your pocket, unlike some peers. Plus, features like autofocus, in-body stabilization, and the live-streaming mode help it stand apart from the rest.

The latter is especially important if you are a content creator and want to share a snippet of your work directly with your audience. The Lumix GH5 II establishes the connection through Wi-Fi and the connected app on your phone.https://9be54a97070a279f293d414fb8ba4dbb.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

This mirrorless camera is lauded for its support for Anamorphic image stabilization mode. At the same time, it supports a wide variety of formats, frame rates, resolutions, and bit rates. The GHS II offers a variety of movie-making options, which adds to its versatility.

It is fast and is quick to record images. If we talk numbers, it can shoot full-resolution images at 12fps. Again, the battery life is decent, and on a single charge, you can expect to capture around 400 pictures. Cool, we’d say.

2. CANON EOS R5

  • Sensor size: 36 x 24mm | Resolution: 8192 x 5464
  • Image stabilization: 5-axis
  • Sensor type: CMOS

Canon EOS R5

Buy

If you are looking for a mid-range mirror camera that manages to shoot good images and is both lightweight and robust, the Canon EOS R5 is worth a peek. It is designed for both pro-shooters and beginners and is known to deliver superb image quality. It features a bright OLED display, 8K video recording, and 8 stops of stabilization.

The 45-megapixel sensor of the EOS R5 delivers clear and crisp images and has excellent color reproduction. At the same time, the RAW files capture enough details, which makes them good for post-processing.https://9be54a97070a279f293d414fb8ba4dbb.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

At the same time, the EOS R5 is one of the first Canon cameras to come with in-body image stabilization. So not only do you get shake-free and blur-free images, but the 8-stop stabilization also ensures that you can add other stabilization-free lenses to your kit without compromising in quality.

The best part is that it has a light and compact body, making it easy to film and capture photos. Plus, the buttons and controls are similar to most Canon DSLR cameras. The battery can see you through around 4 hours of usage with the EVF (or Electronic View Finder) on.

More importantly, the EOS R5 is built like a tank and can take its share of abuse. You can also shoot in any condition, be it biting-cold or a hot & humid climate.

3. SONY A1

  • Sensor size: 35.9 x 24 mm | Resolution: 8640 x 5760
  • Image stabilization: 5-axis stabilization
  • Sensor type: BSI-CMOS

Sony A1

Buy

The Sony A1 is a little pricier than the one above and packs a punch. Like the one above, it can shoot in 8K and is designed for pro shooters. It sports a 50-megapixel camera and can shoot both stills and videos. More importantly, the camera delivers accurate colors and true skin tones, and that’s a plus.

It sports a bevy of features such as autofocus, EVFs, a compact model, and a fast processor like the one above. The Sony A1’s processor is comparable to the EOS R5. It can shoot 155 compressed RAW files before the buffer gets filled up.

The main advantage of this camera is its EVF (or Electronic View Finder). The OLED of the EVF displays sharp and bright images. And the odds are that you will do well without the conventional viewfinder.

The EOS R5 and Sony A1 are similar in terms of the build as well. The A1 also has a solid build and is weather-resistant, making it apt for any weather shooting.

Last but not least, the battery of the Sony A1 is slated to last around 530 shots. And if you are shooting in 8K, you can expect more than an hour.

It’s not without its issues. For one, the screen of the A1 only tilts up & down and doesn’t articulate. So while it’s great for capturing stills, it can be a bit challenging to capture videos.

4. FUJIFILM GFX 100

  • Sensor size: 44 x 33 mm | Max resolution: 11648 x 8736
  • Image stabilization: 5-axis image stabilization
  • Sensor type: BSI-CMOS

Fujifilm GFX 100

Buy

The Fujifilm GFX 100 costs a lot more than its competitors above, and this one is designed for full pros. It bundles a large sensor and can capture 4K in both UHD and DCI resolution. At the same time, the GFX 100 also sports a faster focus mechanism, in-body image stabilization, Bluetooth, and Wi-Fi.

Compared to the one above, the camera has a different look. Unlike the ones above, it has a tad different look and resembles Fuji’s Instax instant camera lineup to some extent. It weighs just 3.1 pounds, and the frame is fully protected against dust and splashes.https://9be54a97070a279f293d414fb8ba4dbb.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

The larger sensor means you get exceptionally good photos with greater details. This is because the RAW captures are noiseless and don’t have any visible grain. At the same time, the processor is fast and can hold up to 15 RAW images till the buffer fills up.

The folks at PC Mag imply that the GFX 100 has one of the faster focuses among mirrorless full-frame models. Plus, the 5-axis stabilization means that you can crisp shot even when you capture photos without a tripod.

Last but not least, the GFX 100 is powered by dual batteries. These batteries can see you through a day of moderate shooting. Huge, right?

MIRROR MIRROR ON THE WALL

These were some of the mirrorless cameras with image stabilization that you can buy. While these cameras let you capture great stills and videos both on the tripod or through hands, the effects of the image stabilization are not clearly visible on the viewfinder

At the same time, image stabilization is not as effective on long telephoto lenses.

Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV

The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV mirrorless includes a stabilized sensor and 4K recording, features you won’t get in an entry-level SLR (Photo: Jim Fisher)


Entry-Level DSLRs vs. Mirrorless Cameras

A decade ago, if you wanted a camera with interchangeable lenses, an SLR was obvious choice. Times have changed. Today’s mirrorless cameras, even those at the entry end of the price spectrum, are just as, if not more capable than an SLR at a comparable price. And while you can still buy a mirrorless camera without a built-in viewfinder, more and more low-cost models include the feature.

One of our favorite entry-level ILCs, the Fujifilm X-S10, has an autofocus system that runs circles around comparably priced SLRs, so it can track fast-moving subjects and keep them sharply in focus for every shot. It also shoots very high-quality 4K video, and include a stabilized sensor. It omits some high-end features—it’s not weather-sealed like more expensive models—but is just as good when it comes to imaging and video.

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But there are reasons to opt for an SLR. If your eyes are sensitive to electronic displays, or if you simply prefer an optical viewfinder, you can go with an SLR. It’s also an easy upgrade path if you’ve moving up from an older model—the Canon EOS Rebel T8i uses the same lenses as an old EOS Rebel T3i, just for one example, and there’s something to be said for familiarity.2

This Day in History


Understanding Sensor Size

Fujifilm X-T4

The Fujifilm X-T4, and other Fujifilm X cameras, use the APS-C sensor size (Photo: Jim Fisher)

Most consumer ILCs use image sensors that, while much larger than those found in point-and-shoot cameras, are somewhat smaller than a 35mm film frame. This can be a bit confusing when talking about a camera’s field of view, as focal lengths for compacts are often expressed in terms of 35mm equivalency. The standard APS-C sensor features a “crop factor” of 1.5x. This means that the 18-55mm kit lens that is bundled with most DSLRs covers a 35mm field of view equivalent to 27-82.5mm.

Micro Four Thirds, which has a 2x crop factor, is another popular mirrorless format, with cameras available from OM System (the new name for Olympus) and Panasonic. Its kit lenses are typically around 14-42mm in design, but don’t give you a wider view than an 18-55mm APS-C lens. Micro Four Thirds is the oldest mirrorless system, so there are plenty of lenses available. And even though the format is smaller than APS-C, it is significantly larger than a smartphone or point-and-shoot image sensor.

Panasonic Lumix DC-GH5 II

The Panasonic GH5 II uses a Micro Four Thirds sensor and lenses (Photo: Jim Fisher)

There are many inherent advantages to a larger sensor. It allows you to better control the depth of field in images, making it possible to isolate your subject and create a blurred background. This blur is often referred to by the Japanese term bokeh. Much has been written about the quality of the bokeh created by different lenses, but the general rule of thumb is that the more light a lens can capture—measured numerically as its aperture, or f-number—the blurrier the background can be. A lens with a maximum aperture of F1.4 lets in eight times as much light as one of F4, and can create a shallower depth of field at an equivalent focal length and shooting distance.

Another reason to go for the big sensor is to minimize image noise. A 24MP APS-C sensor has much larger pixels than a point-and-shoot of comparable resolution. These larger pixels allow the sensor to be set at a higher sensitivity, measured numerically as ISO, without creating as much image noise. An advantage to the larger surface area is that changes in color or brightness are more gradual than that of a point-and-shoot. This allows more natural-looking images with a greater sense of depth.

Nikon Z 5

The Nikon Z 5 offers photographers an affordable way to jump into a full-frame system (Photo: Jim Fisher)

Some cameras feature sensors that are equal in size to 35mm film. These full-frame cameras are generally more expensive than their APS-C counterparts, but you can get started with an entry-level kit for around $1,500. If you see yourself moving up to a full frame in the future, be careful in buying lenses. Some are designed to be used with APS-C sensors, and either won’t work at all with a full-frame body, or will work, but with reduced resolution.


Choose a Camera That Feels Right

It’s very important to choose a camera that feels comfortable in your hands. While most DSLRs are similar in size and build, mirrorless cameras are more varied in design. Some are shaped much like SLRs, with an electronic viewfinder centered behind the lens mount. Others put the EVF in the corner, similar to the position of an optical finder in a rangefinder camera, and typically offer a smaller handgrip.

Panasonic Lumix DC-S5

We love the ergonomics of Panasonic’s entry-level full-frame, the Lumix S5 (Photo: Jim Fisher)

As a general rule of thumb, an SLR-style mirrorless camera is a better fit for use with larger lenses. The centered viewfinder and sizable handgrip make balancing a big lens a bit more pleasant. Rangefinder-style cameras are better suited if you expect to use smaller zoom or prime lenses.

Think about controls too. If you are interested in capturing fast action and working with big lenses, look for a camera that has a joystick control on the rear panel—it comes in handy for interfacing with the autofocus system. Other models, including many from Fujifilm and Nikon’s retro Z fc, include dedicated dials to set shutter speed, a plus for photographers who want to try their hand at manual exposure.

The camera you choose should be one that you are most comfortable using. If a DSLR is too big or small for you to hold comfortably, or if the controls are not laid out in a way that makes sense to you, chances are you won’t enjoy using it as much as you should.


Get the Best Viewfinder

SLRs use optical viewfinders and mirrorless cameras sport EVFs. The difference isn’t as huge as you’d expect. With an optical finder you see through the lens thanks to a series of mirrors and optics that direct light to your eye. With an EVF, an electronic feed from the image sensor is shown on a small screen, typically an OLED.

The two technologies offer different views of the world. Optical finder brightness varies based on the f-stop of your lens, so if you put an F1.4 prime on, it will appear brighter than it would with an F4 zoom. You get an uncluttered view of the world—typically you’ll see the active focus point light up when making an image, and you may be able to add framing guidelines, but that’s it.

Canon EOS 90D

SLR fans will want to get a midrange model like the Canon EOS 90D in order to get a pentaprism viewfinder (Photo: Jim Fisher)

An EVF will, typically, show the image as the capture is going to make it. You see a real-time preview of the depth of field, any color filters you’ve applied, a live histogram, and any other information your camera is able to display. Information overlays can be toggled off too, if you prefer an uncluttered view. If you’re getting started with photography, you’ll find the preview offered will help you make images in-camera that are truer to the photo.

There are different levels of quality with a viewfinder, regardless of the tech that drives it. Entry-level SLRs typically include pentamirror optical designs, which use a series of mirrors to show you the view through the lens. They are smaller and lighter than the premium, solid glass pentaprism viewfinders found in pricier SLRs. But there are downsides to a pentamirror—images don’t appear as big as with most pentaprisms, you don’t get truly accurate image framing, and pentaprisms tend to be a bit brighter.

Fujifilm X-T4

The Fujifilm X-T4’s 0.78x EVF is large and sharp to the eye (Photo: Jim Fisher)

The same is true for EVFs. You’ll want to pay attention to the magnification rating—a larger number denotes a bigger EVF—as well as the resolution. Today’s entry-level mirrorless cameras have slightly larger viewfinders than comparable SLRs, backed with OLED panels. Spending more on a midrange or pro-level mirrorless camera often, but not always, gets you a larger viewfinder. Look for 0.78x magnification and at 3.7 million dot resolution if you’re shelling out for a flagship.


Continuous Shooting and Autofocus Speed

Interchangeable lens cameras have another big advantage over point-and-shoots—speed. The time that it takes between hitting the shutter button and the camera capturing a picture, referred to as shutter lag, and the wait time between taking photos are often concerns with compact cameras. DSLR and mirrorless cameras generally focus very quickly and deliver shutter lag that is nearly immeasurable.

Sony a7 III

The Sony a7 III tracks subjects and fires off photos at 10fps (Photo: Zlata Ivleva)

Continuous shooting is measured in frames per second. Entry-level models typically offer around 5fps capture, but we’ve seen affordable models with capture rates up to 11fps with tracking, and speeds as high as 30fps with focus locked after the first shot. That’s quick enough to satisfy the needs of photographers capturing sports, wildlife, and other types of intense action.

As frame rates increase, autofocus systems do as well. Entry-level SLRs usually only have a few focus points, bunched up toward the center of the frame. This is because of the way SLR focus systems work. Light is not only directed to the viewfinder, but also to a discrete autofocus sensor. The dedicated sensor checks for focus at several points—ranging from around ten for basic systems up to more than 150 for advanced cameras, which also spread points farther across the frame for wider focus coverage.

Mirrorless cameras are different. There’s no autofocus sensor, instead focus is done using the image sensor. The tech has opened up new possibilities for subject recognition, including better subject tracking, automatic face and eye detection, and (for some systems) eye detection for pets, wildlife, and different types of vehicles.

They’re not all created equal. Some entry mirrorless cameras don’t have all the bells and whistles, and rely on contrast focus for tracking. If you’re interested in photographing action, it’s wise to spend a little more on one with on-sensor phase detection.

Canon EOS R3

The Canon EOS R3 is a high-end model with a full-frame stacked sensor (Photo: Jim Fisher)

On the very high end of the spectrum, cameras like the Sony a9 II and Canon EOS R3 use stacked sensors, good enough for ultra-high speed focus and capture, without losing view of the scene during capture. You’ll need to budget thousands for one of these cameras today, but we expect the technology to trickle down to more affordable models in the future.


Live View and 4K Video

The different focus systems also change the way cameras handle video recording. With an SLR, you’ll need to press a button or tap a switch to change from the optical viewfinder to the rear LCD to facilitate video capture, but with mirrorless cameras, the switch is seamless.

SLRs typically use contrast focus for video capture, which means autofocus is a little slow and choppy when making movies. Most Canon SLRs use the company’s proprietary Dual Pixel AF tech, a type of phase detection that splits each sensor pixel into two. This gives the camera the same smooth, fast focus when recording video as you get from a mirrorless camera.

Fujifilm X-S10

Most mirrorless cameras include an eye sensor to automatically swap between the rear LCD and eye-level viewfinder (Photo: Jim Fisher)

Mirrorless cameras use the same focus system for video as they do for stills. There’s usually no need to change modes to switch from stills to video, and focus is just as quick and smooth regardless of whether you are capturing stills or moving images.

There are other features to look for if you are serious about filmmaking. At a minimum you’ll want a model with a microphone input for better quality audio. But you’ll also want to look for stabilization, either in-body or in-lens, 4K recording, and a flat log color profile.


Be Realistic About Lenses and Accessories

Most first-time ILC users aren’t going to purchase a whole bevy of lenses, but there are a few to consider to supplement the kit lens that ships with the camera. The first is a telezoom to complement the standard starter lens. Most systems offer a starter 55-300mm, 70-300mm, or similar telephoto.

Fujifilm X-S10 with 75-300mm

You’ll want to add a telephoto lens to bring far-off subjects into closer view (Photo: Jim Fisher)

Another popular lens choice is a fast, normal-angle prime lens. Before zooms were popular, film SLRs were often bundled with a 50mm F2 lens. The rough equivalent is a 35mm prime on an APS-C sensor and a 25mm on Micro Four Thirds. The standard angle gives you a field of view that isn’t far off from that of your eye, and the fast aperture makes it possible to shoot in lower light and to isolate your subject by blurring the background of your photos. Prices for these lenses vary a bit depending on your camera system, but you can expect them to run you between $175 and $350.

Godox V1

The Godox V1 flash has a thoughtful design with a round head, rechargeable battery, and wireless capability—it’s available for all popular camera systems (Photo: Jim Fisher)

Even though consumer DSLRs have built-in flashes as a rule, mirrorless cameras don’t always include them. To make up for this, you’ll typically find a small, clip-on flash included with an entry-level mirrorless camera. But as long as your camera has a standard hot accessory shoe, you can opt to add a more powerful external flash. These flashes emit more light and can often be repositioned so that you can use reflected light to illuminate a subject. Bouncing flash off of a ceiling to brighten a room is possible with a dedicated flash unit, but not with the ubiquitous pop-up flash. Depending on your needs for power, recycle time, and movement, a dedicated flash can cost anywhere from $150 to $500.

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