In the watchmaking world, a complication refers to any feature in a mechanical timepiece beyond the basic hour and minute hands. The term is most commonly used with wristwatches, but can also be applied to clocks, particularly antique clocks. As a result of the historical tendency to apply strictly functional roles to timepieces, no completely precise equivalent exists in everyday English.

One thing most watch lovers can agree on is that the mechanical watch is a wonderful and complex piece of engineering art. But what makes it so appealing? Its precision, its design or its price? People have been fascinated by timekeeping way before Buerkle Brothers or Louis Moinet patented the first watch in 1810. Although nowadays watches have evolved into pieces of jewelry, they are still functional and some of them even come with very sophisticated complications.

Watches with cool complications

The way men’s wristwatches have always been manufactured is a completely different process than how women’s watches were created. Women’s watches were traditionally made with small and thin movements, while the men were set with larger and more complex functionalities to be much better suited for their work. However, technology has improved both the size and functionality of smaller components in watch manufacturing, creating new possibilities for women’s watches too.

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Affordable watch complications

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Most watch aficionados consider a go-to dress watch to be a necessary addition to any collection, whether it’s a piece designated for wear only on special occasions or one worn daily to the office. Along with sports watches, dress watches represent one of the most sought-after styles, so we’ve curated a list of the best dress watches that offer style, value, and quality at every price range. Of course, this list is by no means exhaustive and we laid some ground rules in putting this together.

Ground Rules:

First of all, our list is composed of dress watches that are all currently on the market, available through an authorized dealer or directly from the brand. Secondly, most of the watches on the list should be accessible, as we took care to not include watches that are impossible to buy because of a waitlist situation. Thirdly, we managed to include dress watches priced from $200 up to $30,000 to appeal to a wide range of budgets. Finally, we decided to include only one watch from each watch brand: it would have been easy to pack this list with multiple watches from a handful of the expected brands, but our method opens the door to some alternative options that might surprise you. If you’re interested in our take on other watch styles, be sure to check out our Best Pilot Watches, Best Dive Watches, and Best Automatic Watches lists as well!

Enjoy!

Timex Marlin

For decades, Timex focused on affordable, mass-produced quartz watches, but recently the company has tapped into the mechanical market with the Marlin Collection. The Gentleman’s Hand-Wound comes in a 34mm case with only a single silver dial configuration that’s heavily influenced by Timex’s early 1960s catalog. Additionally, there is a larger 40mm automatic movement option with a wider array of dial options including eye-catching “Cali Dials”. Timex is light on the mechanical movement specs other than to note they are provided by a Chinese supplier, which isn’t surprising given the accessible $199 and $249 price tags, making it one of the more affordable mechanical options available. 

Reference: Timex Marlin Collection 
Case: 34mm, Thickness 10mm, Lug-To-Lug: 41mm, Lug Width: 18mm Crystal: Acrylic Movement: Hand Winding or Automatic Mechanical, Water-Resistance: 50m, Material: Steel, Price: $199

Orient Bambino

As one of the true gateway brands, Orient’s value packed lineup doesn’t stop at just tool watches. The Bambino is an affordable mechanical dress watch that offers modern yet reasonable case measurements along with solid specs. Inside, the in-house manufactured caliber F6724 gives the wearing hacking second capabilities and has a power reserve of 40 hours while operating at 3hz. A domed mineral crystal covers the white dial and while it would have been nice to have a sapphire crystal, the trade off for an in-house movement at this price range is worth it. 

Reference: FAC00009W0
Case: 40.5mm, Thickness 11.8mm, Lug-To-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Domed Mineral, Movement: Automatic F6724 Caliber, Water-Resistance: 30m, Material: Steel, Price: $300

Bulova Commodore Limited Edition

Bulova’s roll out of their commemorative John Bulova limited edition collection has yielded some surprisingly good vintage inspired, Swiss made dress watches equipped with high quality Sellita SW200-1 movements. While each model has its own flair, perhaps none are as cool as the Commodore with the glossy black dial. A distinctly well proportioned and well finished case is highlighted by the wire lugs, which helps this stand out from the other commemorative models from this collection. Sapphire crystals are wisely supplied for both the dial side and on the partial exhibition back. Limited to just 350 pieces for the world.

Reference: 96B324
Case: 38.5mm, Thickness 11.3mm, Lug-To-Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW200-1, Water-Resistance: 30m, Material: Steel, Price: $1295

Seiko Presage SRPB43

Few brands offer the kind of quality and affordability Seiko does when it comes to watches under the $500 price point. The Presage SRPB43 is the epitome of quality and affordability, combining a striking dial, high level finishing, and the workhorse automatic 4R35 movement which features a hand-winding and hacking second functionality. When fully wound, this movement has a power reserve of approximately 40 hours and is visible through the exhibition case back. Seiko’s dedication to building a dress watch in this price range with outside-the-office capabilities is highlighted here by the 50m water resistant rating. [Photo credit: watchpatrol]

Reference: SRPB43
Case: 38.5mm, Thickness 11.3mm, Lug-To-Lug: 47m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic 4R35 Water-Resistance: 50m, Material: Steel, Price: $425

Hamilton Jazzmaster Automatic

The Hamilton Jazzmaster collection is chalked full of dressy watch options with a range of mechanical and quartz offerings. The Jazzmaster Automatic offers a modern take on a classic three-handed look in a number of attractive dials from the formal tuxedo black design to a more business casual blue, beige or silver options with either baton hour markers or in Roman numerals. This collection is fitted with the Powermatic 80 based H-10 movement, providing 80 hours of power reserve, a hacking second, a date, and beats at 3hz. Other high end touches include sapphire crystals on the front and back as well as 50m of water resistance, making it one of the best dress watch values on the market. 

Reference: H32475520
Case: 40.0mm, Thickness 11.2mm, Lug-To-Lug: 46mm Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic H-10 (ETA C07.111) Water-Resistance: 50m, Material: Steel, Price: $895

Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80

Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 features many of the same specs as the Hamilton Jazzmaster Automatic as they share the same base movement, however the looks are even a bit more classic and restrained with the Tissot. It sits slightly smaller than Hamilton at 39.3mm across and just 9.8mm thick giving it a more streamlined style. There is just one dial option available right now, the silver dial with Roman numerals and stamped pyramid texture. Priced at $575, you still get the sapphire crystal and reasonable water resistance of 30m along with a butterfly folding clasp, which is not available on the more expensive Hamilton. 

Reference: T006.407.16.033.00
Case: 39.3mm, Thickness 9.8mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.111 Water-Resistance: 30m, Material: Steel, Price: $575

Frederique Constant Classic Index Automatic 

The Frederique Constant Classic Index Automatic is a no-nonsense Swiss made dress watch that can be had in a variety of dial configurations and colors. In one of it’s dressiest examples, you get a formal black dial with stick markers and sword style hands that are fitted with a decent amount of lume – an element that’s often inexplicably absent from dress watches. It’s powered by the staunchly reliable Sellita SW200-1 based FC-303 caliber and features the bells and whistles you’d expect: date, hacking second, and hand-winding capabilities. Sapphire glass is standard here and the quality of the leather strap is a step up from most others in this price range.

Reference: FC-303MR5B6
Case: 40mm, Thickness 10mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW200-1, Water-Resistance: 50m, Material: Steel, Price: $895

Junghans Max Bill Automatic

Dress watches are formal by nature but that doesn’t mean a minimalist execution can’t be just as appropriate in the right situation. Junghans specializes in Bauhaus-inspired minimalism and with the Max Bill Automatic, they offer a striking, if not refreshing, take on the dress watch. The case size hits the 38mm sweetspot and the compact 40mm lug to lug distance opens this piece up to many smaller wrist sizes and the use of the renowned Swiss ETA 2824-2. However, there are a few compromises made with the ETA movement to accommodate the price, mainly the crystal is plexiglass (although coated for added scratch resistance) and limited water resistance. 

Reference: 027/3501.04
Case: 38mm, Thickness 10mm, Lug-To-Lug: 40mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Scratch Resistant Plexiglass, Movement: Automatic J880.1 (ETA 2824-2) Water-Resistance: Splash Resistant, Material: Steel, Price: $1095

MeisterSinger Lunascope

Just because it’s a dress watch doesn’t mean it has to be boring. That seems to be the approach that Meistersinger has taken with their lineup of single handed, German made watches. While most complications are unnecessary on a classic dress watch, a moon phase can add a functional and visual dynamic that can enhance a piece’s overall appeal, as you see with the Lunascope. Currently, Meistersinger’s team adds their moon phase module to the solid and nicely decorated Sellita SW220 movement (earlier versions used the ETA 2836-2), which is further modified to display the time using just a single hand, harmoniously pairing the brands two signature features.

Reference: LS908_SG03
Case: 40mm, Thickness 12mm, Lug-To-Lug: 48.7mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Domed Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW220 w/ Meistersinger module; Water-Resistance: 50m, Material: Steel, Price: $3845/$4045

Nomos Orion 38

In sticking with the minimalist theme here, the Nomos Orion blurs the line between dressy and casual in a way that makes it one of the more versatile dress watch options on this list. The Orion is a simple three-hander that features the hand-winding, in-house Alpha movement in a slender 7.9mm thick case. The Alpha movement offers up good looks with the rhodium plated bridges finished in traditional Glashutte ribbing while providing 43 hours of power reserve and a hacking second. While 30m of water resistance isn’t nothing, the Orion is best suited for in the office but can perform at a high level in harsher conditions as well.

Reference: 387
Case: 38mm, Thickness 7.9mm, Lug-To-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Domed Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding Nomos Alpha Caliber, Water-Resistance: 50m, Material: Steel, Price: $2260

Ball Trainmaster Moon Phase

What if you need a dress watch, but you’re not a dress watch guy, you’re a tool watch guy? Well, there’s something for you, too. The Ball Watch Company is well known for their impressively over-engineered tool watches, so with the Trainmaster Moon Phase they combine rugged dependability with a surprisingly sharp dial that features a elaborate moon phase aperture with a fully lumed yellow moon powered by Ball Watch’s proprietary micro-gas filled tubes. Not massive at 40mm across, it’s definitely on the thick side at 14.5mm, and comes with the option of a steel bracelet or a crocodile leather strap. 

Reference: NM3082-SJ-BE-1855
Case: 40mm, Thickness 14.5mm, Lug-To-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Domed Sapphire, Movement: Auto RR1801, Water-Resistance: 50m, Material: Steel, Price: $2299

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